Friday 30 July 2010

One Day To Go

From being one day behind after two nights at Gary and Debbie's near Ax-les-Thermes, I have since done five days in three so will now arrive in Banyuls tomorrow. The final part is so much easier especially if you have five kilos less on your back. Weather has been quite favourable at times with a cool wind although this afternoon and Wednesday had hot climbs to the gite d'etapes.
Also more opportunity to eat food with lunchtime stops on Wednesday and today at Arles Sur Tech and Le Perthus.
So it's all systems go for the final descent tomorrow to Banyuls and see you all sometime after Wednesday.

Wednesday 21 July 2010

Day 38 - Out of The Ariege

After two weeks, I've completed the hardest section of the walk, the two weeks that takes me from Bagneres de Luchon to Merens-les-Vals. It is the hardest because of the paucity of accomodation and shops to buy food so you need to carry up to four days provisions at a time. I've now completed 75% of the walk - probably more as the remaining stages have much shorter projected times, typically 4 to 6 hours plus stops. The camping equipment is also going back home which will mean 5 or 6 kilos less to carry.
Until yesterday it was going really well. I'd been on the same schedule as a couple from Brittany (Danielle and Jean-Noël) so we aimed to stay at the same refuge, gite d'etape or cabane. From being a day behind after Fos, I had caught up and by turning what would be a 4 hour day from Goulier to Siguer into a 7 hour day to a cabane 5 hours on (the 4hr bit was done in 3:10) and the weather was cool and misty - ideal for walking although very challenging for navigation. However the cabane was only a little one and was filled by a Belgian couple so the tent had come out in the mist. By the morning there was a brilliant sunrise coming through the mist - one of 700 photos I've taken so far.
Yesterday should have been a nice 5 hour walk from the Refuge de Ruhle (about 7200ft above sea level) to Merens-les-Vals but I had my worst navigation problem of the five weeks so far. In some areas the way marking is very good, in others not. The worst case is when the GR way marks are there but you are no longer on the GR10. This is what happened yesterday. I followed the markers, failing to see any turn or any additional information. I became suspicious, looked at the maps, thought something was wrong, then turned round to see a very clear GR way mark. This was 30 minutes beyond where I should have turned I continued along the path to come to a quite new refuge. They spoke Spanish. I was in Spain. I had gone an hour too far. One problem with the maps in the France Randonnee book is they only cover the route so if you veer too far, you are off the map.
That and other lack of marking turned the day into an 11 hour walk with me not arriving in Merens but at L'Hospitalet near Andorra as I found out I was no longer on the GR10 but the variant the GR10C.
Hopefully no more nightmare days.
Today I'm having my first full rest day at Gary & Debbie Devine's brilliant Gite/Chambre d'Hote 4 miles north of Ax-Le Thermes which is few miles north of Merens where I shall restart tomorrow.
Last night we had runners here from Holmfirth Harriers, Lothian Harriers and Baildon Runners. By the way Gary is a member of Pudsy & Bramley and still wins races.
It's well worth a holiday down here with lots of acivities and is also close to Andorra the Med and Barcelona. It's called Pyrenees Haven

Wednesday 7 July 2010

A minor setback

According to Paul Lucia's book, yesterday was expected to be the hardest day of the GR10. But he'd not taken into account a diversion due to fallen trees that added at least 40 minutes and his route didn't follow the ridge route unlike the actual markers on the ground. Some superfluous markers caused about 20 mins of investigation then finally on the very long descent to Fos, a diversion had been but in place, presumably because there were so many fallen trees. I'd already had to find my way under two with the second necessitating removing my pack which weighs currently probably over 18KG.
After 7.40am start and by lunchtime being 30 minutes up on Lucia's schedule, I eventually arrived in Fos at 7.20pm, very tired, thirsty and very hungry.
Then the problem. Once I'd stopped, I realised my right ankle was now screaming at me. So today has been a rest day. I've actually walked to the next village so done 70 minutes of the 6hrs40 schedule. Last night I dined with a party of four Yorkshiremen served by a lady from Stockton on Tees; Home from home. Bet the one Frenchman in the restuarant thought he was abroad.
So big thanks to the owners of Le Gentillhommiere in Fos for helping me out with icebags.

Today I'm writing this from a lovely little hotel up the road in Melles - 31440 - the Auberge de Crabere. Tel +33 (0) 5 61 79 40 49.



Tomorrow I shall complete the day and hopefully will be just be one day behind. Luckily I have a day to spare and as long as I can manage my ankle may even recover that day, especially once I've sent home up to 6 kilos of cqmping gear after the Ariege in a couple of weeks.

Monday 5 July 2010

Nearly half way across

Just landed in Bagneres de Luchon after an overnight stay in the remotest of all refuges - the Refuge d'Espingo. The last part of getting ther via Lac D'Oo was in two parts - the first was like Malham to Malham Cove on a Sunday afternoon the second less busy - nevertheless a near 3000ft climb in the heat in two and half hours with 15 kilos on my back.
This morning set off at 7.20 with sunshine and clouds below. By 9.30 I was in the clouds and a bit cooler then they cleared when I got to Superbagneres which is 1150m above Bagneres de Luchon and arrived for 2pm. Well satisfied. Again more scenic photos to post up when I get back.
Tomorrow begins the hard bit - the Ariege where ther are not much facilities and may need to make use of my tent. Off to go shopping for supplies.

Friday 2 July 2010

Day 20 Veille-Aure

Just had first easy day in a long while although it was very hot on the descent to manage to arrive in a village before the restuarant stopped serving (brilliant 10euro menu)- but only just. Previous day was a 10.5 hour heat slog with the highest point of the trek included at 2509m. Brilliant views though. Couple of short days then a big one to Bagneres de Luchon and then the Ariége (very remote - need to carry food).
Thunderstorm now and I'm about 800m away in a cybecafe. Think it's stopped
Bye.

Thursday 1 July 2010

Mobile phone not working

I cannot get my mobile to fully start up so if you need to contact me, please do so through Julie on my home number. If you do not have this, the Harriers Club Secretary can provide it if you can't find it on bt.com.

Next few days should be a bit easier although today is fairly long. Before yesterday I had five very hard days averaging nearly 8 hours per day but this set of five should be lees than six per day on average.

I'm now in the Hotel Central in Bareges which is excellent. After 3 days of Hotels it's back to Gite D'Etapes tonight up in the wild country. Go up to 8500 ft again today but no snow (over 1k on Hourquette d'Arre last week). Better get going.